Kyoto & the Hanami

Welcome back to Japan!!!!! Yes I say it to our selves!! Hip hip hooray!!!!

Leaving for our current 3 month stint to Japan was quite peaceful. So calm in fact that I worried what we had forgotten to do and fretted that perhaps I should be more excited. You know, sometimes the build up of stress gives you the immense sense of satisfaction and anticipation, and without it, it felt, well, a bit anti-cathartic. But in a good way. Perhaps it was also because we knew all the unknowns from before. 

But our journey was a little nuts nonetheless. After a 2 hour delay sitting on the plane, an 11 hour flight to Osaka, a 1 1/2 hour train journey to Kyoto, and a 25 min bus ride that turned into an hour, all without sleep I might add, we finally arrived at a most charming guesthouse called Corsage. It's an old warehouse lovingly and meticulously built around a very certain aesthetic, done and run by a young interior design graduate named Hama. I recommend it highly if traveling to Kyoto. I can not really do it justice here, it was even more charming in person than it was in photos. We stayed in 2 different rooms and found it very much to our liking. 

We had 3 nights in Kyoto so we had to be a little decisive about our activities. The day we arrived was lush and sunny but already a bit late into the afternoon so we dashed out to rent bikes and rode around and visited some sakura (cherry blossom) trees along the river. We were all super jet lagged and weird and I was even a bit dizzy and constantly felt like the ground was swaying (not completely without enjoyment I might add), so we didn't make any huge plans except to eat noodles and buy breakfast for the morning.

Unfortunately, the weather turned and it was cold and rainy in the morning which turned out to be a blessing. We slept waaaay late and had lazy breakfast at the heated table (a must in most Japanese homes, why oh why do we not have these in our part of the world???) and headed out to do a little shopping around as that meant being under the covered arcades and in shops.

The next day was super bonanza hanami!!!!! (The name for sakura enjoyment picnic parties and the sole reason we were in Kyoto.) None of us slept so at 5:45 what's the point of staying in bed?! We headed out early on the bikes looking for a plastic tarp for the rain-quenched ground, bought a bunch of pre-made Japanese food, and headed into Maruyama Koen (Park) to check out what all the fuss is about. And my oh my it did not disappoint. 

We were there very early so got a good spot under a beautiful tree (which is a mixed bag really, with hundreds of people coming over to photograph it, we surely ended up in many holiday slideshows). Turns out we didn't need the tarp as the whole thing is a bit like going to the fair but totally catered and planned like only the Japanese can do. Mats are laid out, food vendors are selling all manner of delicacies, and hordes and hordes of people start showing up drinking and eating and lounging about. Man, they got that shit sorted. Even though drunk is mostly the manner of the day, it's all very civilized with no nationalistic shouting, public urination or drunken brawling. Impressive indeed. 

But we were certainly weary and sleep deprived and totally effen loopy so our enjoyment waxed and waned. We couldn't even fathom drinking any alcohol as we were, after all, responsible for the welfare of a 3 year old while cycling through masses of people on the sidewalks. (It's just how they roll here. It's nearly a contact sport.) And Hopper is, without surprise, a total freak without proper sleep. So we had our moments for sure. But, the sakura are ridiculous beautiful and I totally get it, why they are so revered. With streets, parks, parking lots, and sidewalks lined in fluffy white and pink flowers, you can't help but feel a little giddy (even if not giddy with fatigue). I caressed them when I could, spoke to them when no one was looking, and genuinely feel blessed to have witnessed them in their full bloom glory. Hopper even couldn't resist taking a few nibbles, which for all I know is sacrilege or something. They do kind of give you an effervescent belly, cute freaking  things, all collected into perfect balls or draping over like a weeping willow. I mean dammit, how much perfect can one person handle? 

Seriously.

The next day we cycled around the market and a couple temples, tried to find the Philosopher's Path to no avail (it has now eluded us on 2 different trips to Kyoto, can it really be that hidden?), checked out a little hillside hiking trail on Hopper's lead, and managed to get to the Imperial Park for a little playground action and to visit my favorite tree, now lovingly named by Hopper as the Hugging Tree. (I don't know why, I have to hug this tree and it makes me cry. It's a super special tree. And I will go hug it every chance I get. Is that weird?)

Then back to Corsage to collect our things and hop the train to Osaka. Goodbye Kyoto. I love you.

Let the photo onslaught begin...

Let's see, who's excited about Japan and who's excited about 11 hours of cartoons?

gets the best seat

looking at this you'd think we're the only people arriving at Kyoto Station

But there's wagashi (desert) right here

sleeping Nugget at Corsage arrival, Warehouse of the Creator

so charming, so lovely

duck helmet was a love/hate relationship, but the guys at Emusica bike rental were great

throwing stones

wanted to "swim" but totally chickened out when he felt the water

COLD

Gah!

giddy

over-exposed happiness with sakura view

dude, get outta my photo!... <sigh>... alright

morning shenanigan happiness after 15 hours of sleep (that ended up being the last for the next 2 days) 

temple off the market, with a beautiful cemetery that led to some uncomfortable questions 

snuggly breakfast with legs and half of Hopper under the heated table (which is enshrouded in a blanket to trap the heat). i want one.

Corsage entrance

cycling path along both sides of the river (as opposed to riding along traffic up above)

not sure what the significance of this is, I would venture a guess that it's a fertility or child's thing

Super Kawaii Hanami style!!!!!

Mother Sakura

picnic, still early

there were a few scattered sleepers reserving spots. oh and Hopper is back to loving hijiki now that we're back in Japan.

Hopper was kinda just one big spasm all day

hold 'im down daddy

Family Hanami!

so tired and so loopy. guess who is who?

ok, time to head out and try to see some other spots. the naives are getting restless

we were here for 3 hours and it got a little crazy at the end with H showing off for some girls that sat next to us (by eating the flowers- heathens!)

food people food people

what better location to get a bbq-ed fish on a stick?

a super kawaii moment

had to stop along the river as Hopper fell asleep on the bike about 30 seconds after leaving the park, so plopped him down on a grassy bit on our new tarp and had a few moments to contemplate my desire for sleep. he was back in business 30 min later...

...playing hide n seek

where Hopper led us onto the mountain trail, looking for Philosophers Path, only to discover it was way beyond, up the next ridge. We turned back.

Zen Meditation room at Corsage, Hopper approved

ghost

man, i could not sleep so got up before sunrise, took a walk to get vending machine coffee and packed our bags. came back to this cuteness. funny how sleep deprivation brings on insomnia... and the world sways.

just everywhere

oh good morning bird of prey

sakura worshipping dance

kids' play ground at Imperial Park

The Hugging Tree

The Hugging Tree Summer 2013, how glorious is this tree? I had to include this photo too, she's special and here you can really see it.